ONIONS MAKE ME CRY
ROASTED ONIONS WITH BUTTERED PEAS
Onions are always in my kitchen. They congregate quietly on a pretty blue platter with shallots, garlic, and other ingredients capable of survival at ambient temperature. I don't mean to act as if they just appear. I buy them at the farmers' market, the grocery store, or the bodega. There's something about a cluster of onions that makes me feel prepared, complete. If I were to make a list of pantry necessities, onions would surely sit near the top.
I treasure onions in all their moods—raw and pungent, lightly stir-fried and assertive, caramelized and sugary-sweet. Slicing them can be a little uncomfortable, but so are many parts of life. I think it's kind of sensational that a vegetable can bring me to tears. A Publix commercial, sure, but an onion? Could you imagine if grating zucchini made me scream? There's this one poem by Suji Kwock Kim written from the perspective of the onion, which captures its personality so well.
"I don't mean to make you cry.
I mean nothing, but this has not kept you
From peeling away my body, layer by layer,
The tears clouding your eyes as the table fills
With husks, cut flesh, all the debris of pursuit.
Poor deluded human: you seek my heart.
Hunt all you want. Beneath each skin of mine
Lies another skin: I am pure onion—pure union
Of outside and in, surface and secret core."
Before reading this poem for the first time, I didn't think of an onion as quite so mean (or guarded). But, upon further reflection, this does not seem far from its raw state, slightly bitter and biting. Luckily, after some time in the oven, the sharp qualities soften and sweeten due to some gentle caramelization. Time and warmth are the ultimate healers.
This brings me to my suggested side dish for your summer table: roasted onions with buttered peas. The recipe is pretty simple. Wedges of onions spend a calming 30 minutes in a low-heat oven, then get tossed with sautéed peas. It's rich and satisfying! This dish is lovely with a piece of slow-roasted salmon, jammy eggs, shreds of leftover roast chicken, or nestled atop a slice of toasted bread with a swipe of ricotta cheese.
Also, don't forget that fresh peas are in season. This recipe is for sluggish and industrious spirits alike. If you can't find fresh peas or don't want to spend time shelling, frozen peas are wonderful. To be honest, I didn't mean for this to be such a pantry meal, but it's pretty nice that it turned out that way. If you're like me, or even if you aren't, you might enjoy giving your pantry onions a well-deserved spotlight.
WHAT WE’RE LEARNING
Cutting onions into wedges doesn't have to be a precious act, but there is a technique produce even cuts. It was delightful to find this rundown from Kenji López-Alt, which puts a name to the way Chef Dave taught me to cut an onion in culinary school: RADIAL.
Slow roasting any vegetable, especially onions, is an easy way to coax the maximum amount of flavor in a hands-off style.
Fresh peas work. Frozen peas work. Sugar snap peas and snow peas work, too!
WHAT WE’RE MAKING
ROASTED ONIONS AND PEAS
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 sprigs thyme, or a sprinkle of dried thyme
1 pound small red onions (about 3), sliced into wedges
2 tablespoons butter
2 cups peas (10 ounces), frozen or fresh
1 dried red chile or crushed red pepper flakes
1. Roast the onions: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Drizzle generously with olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and scatter with sprigs of thyme. Nestle the onion wedges in a single layer onto the seasoning and repeat with more olive oil, salt, and pepper over the top. Bake for 30 minutes, flipping halfway through, until the onions are softened and slightly caramelized.
2. Meanwhile, butter the peas: Heat a skillet over medium. Melt the butter, and add the dried chile or red pepper flakes to briefly bloom in the butter, about 15 to 30 seconds. Add the peas and season with salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the peas are bright green and hot. Gently toss the peas and onions together, and serve hot.
DEAR ASH
Do you have a cooking or food question? Please send it my way! You can reply directly to this email, or send your question to foodstar@substack.com.
Thank you so much for reading!! Stay cool!
Love,
Ash
An onion a day keeps the doctor away! 🧅