The Origin Story of an Onion Soup

And a brief meditation on fusion cuisine

Hi friends! 

Are you ready for some soup? I know what you are thinking. “French onion soup!” Recently, I was too. As I began cooking, my wish for French onion soup started to transform into something new and laughably different from the original, like when flower gardens are replaced with street pumpkins or when the sun sets at 4:30pm instead of 9pm. When working on a recipe, I sometimes cook in the general direction of “that thing I want to eat.” More often than not, the development happens on a winding path that leads to somewhere new and different.

I call it mushroom and onion soup. It comes together faster than its inspiration by employing a forced caramelization of onions with molasses, also known as cheating. Its contents are much more diverse in ingredient makeup thanks to mushrooms, great northern beans, and dark leafy greens. Ingredient diversity means nutrient diversity, and that’s exactly what we’re after. The broth is sweet, sharp, and full of allium (onions, garlic, etc.) flavor, perfect alongside some crusty whole wheat bread or freshly steamed rice. Great for when you don’t want French onion soup but something kind of like it.

The aromas of allspice and ginger give a tiny nod to Jamaican brown stew. Brown stew has this incredible flavor of almost-burnt sugar from an ingredient called browning sauce which is, you guessed it, almost-burnt sugar. A kindred spirit of the caramelized onion sugars in French onion soup. Earlier this year, I read an article by Danny Chau in the New Yorker contemplating the often sinful nature of fusion cuisine. In it, he gently offered, “The thrill of the act isn’t in forcing together dissimilar things but in finding areas of unlikely commonality.” Do you feel me? This is fusion! In this case, caramelized sugar is our throughline, linking the two dishes together. I’m not trying to defend an uncomfortable phase in restaurant history; I just want to make a case for a moderate level of culinary adventure.

The making of this soup will keep you engaged. It’s almost cartoony in its quintessence. You’re slicing onions and garlic, and then stirring and stirring and stirring until the contents of your pot transform into well-melded, brown treasure. I hope you love it! Pump some Ahmad Jamal through your speakers and enjoy the ride. 

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WHAT WE’RE LEARNING

Deglazing is fun! And a great way to add flavor to soups, stews, braises, and sauces. I would deglaze a sandwich if I could! It is most common to use wine, as the recipe suggests, but I would not be angry if you substituted beer. Always reduce your deglazing liquid (wine, beer, juice, water) until the alcohol has cooked off and a syrupy consistency remains. 

Patience is crucial for caramelization. Onions contain naturally occurring sugar, and cooking them evenly will ensure even caramelization. This means patience and attentiveness. Because we’re cooking them faster than usual, it’s easier for a golden brown to turn black in a few minutes. Beware and stir often!

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REVIEWS ARE IN FOR MUSHROOM AND ONION SOUP

“It tastes like a hug.” - Marie C.

“I liked the beans.” - Aki A.

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WHAT WE’RE MAKING

Mushroom and Onion Soup

Serves 4

4 tablespoons butter or extra-virgin olive oil 

2 large yellow onions, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon ground allspice

1 tablespoon molasses

1 pound mixed mushrooms, such as cremini, maitake, or oyster, chopped, torn, or sliced into bite-size pieces

2 cloves garlic, minced or grated

1 tablespoon ginger, grated

Sea salt and ground black pepper

1 cup white wine 

4 cups chicken stock or vegetable stock

1 15-ounce can of great northern beans, drained

4 sprigs thyme

2 cups baby greens, preferably kale

Melt butter in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onions and cook, stirring frequently, for about 7 to 10 minutes or until onions begin to soften and brown. Reduce heat, add allspice and let it bloom for about 30 seconds, stirring to prevent burning. Add ½ cup water and molasses and scrape up any caramelized bits with a wooden spoon. Continue cooking over medium heat until the liquid reduces and becomes syrupy. 

Add mushrooms, garlic, and ginger, and season generously with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms have softened and taken on a brown color of their own, about 10 to 15 minutes. Deglaze with 1 cup white wine, and reduce until the liquid becomes syrupy. 

Add chicken stock, 2 cups water, beans, and thyme. Bring to a simmer and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Continue simmering for 20 minutes while flavors meld. Add greens and cook until just wilted, about 1 to 2 minutes. Remove sprigs of thyme, and serve with bread or rice if you'd like!

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Q&A

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